Species group: Kingsnakes and Milksnakes
Scientific name: Lampropeltis triangulum syspila
Red Milksnakes are found in Alabama, Oklahoma, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, and South Dakota. They inhabit dry woodlands and hide under logs and rock ledges.
Appearance / health:
Very similar to the Sinaloan Milksnake, the Red Milksnake’s main characteristic is the dominantly red (with black markings) on its head and snout. The three bands across the back are red-orange (shaped like saddles) bordered with black, and separated by shades of white, cream, or yellow. The belly is white with checkerboard blotches.
Behavior / temperament:
Red Milksnakes are sought after in the pet trade because they are peaceful and attractive. They are very active, feeding and hunting from dusk to dawn. In the daytime they prefer to hide deep and out of sight. When threatened, they may nip and release a foul-smelling musk.
Red Milksnake adults can be well kept in a 20-gallon escape-proof woodland terrarium. Hiding places such as bark and rocks should be provided. Dish of clean drinking water should also be available. The best substrates for this ground dwelling, burrowing snake are sand, smooth gravel, pine or aspen shavings, and dry peat moss. The cage should always be clean and dry. Day temp: 79-91F; night temp: 64-77F; basking temp: 95F; humidity: 50-60%; lighting: 12 hours.
Red Milksnakes are best kept singly. When housed in pairs or a group, they should be of the same size (to prevent cannibalism) and fed separately.
Like all milksnakes, the primary diet of the Red Milksnake is rodents of appropriate size. They will also accept lizards, amphibians, and nestling birds.
Mating occurs in the late spring to summer. These egg-layers deposit 6-10 elliptical-shaped eggs in warm and moist locations like under logs or rotting leaves. Eggs hatch after 30-40 days.
beautiful color morphs, easy snake, exceptional colors, highly recommended snake
foul smelling ‘milk
central United States, dead prey
A great pet, but not for the squeamish
I've always liked snakes. Even as a little kid I liked snakes, though no one in my family does (none of us know where I got it from, but it wasn’t from them). It probably doesn’t help that my first experience was with a 10 foot banana boa at age 7 that I didn’t stop talking about for nearly a year.
Snakes can be a great pet, even for kids, but they need to be socialized if you want a snake that you can hold or walk around wearing like jewelry (which tends to freak people out, so don’t do it around snake fearing relatives unless you want to get smacked). Some snakes do not like to be held, this is normal. If you want a snake that will be social, don’t be afraid to ask your pet store/shelter/breeder to help you find a snake that’s right for you.
If you’ve ever owned any reptile, then you know that being cold blooded means they need a heat source (like a heat lamp or under-the-tank heaters). Before purchasing a heat lamp, or any heating equipment, research the temperature needed for that specific snake – I can’t say for sure how much temperature can differ with in a single breed, so it’s always best to check (or ask a specialist to help you get your equipment set up). Water bowls are a must; some people don’t know that a snake does need a water source, but they do. Snakes also need places to hide, so you’ll want to invest in a few different types of hiding places. Hiding places (be they fake rocks, branches, or even a little cardboard fort that your kid just has to put in the aquarium) are not something you can skip over when setting up your tank. Snakes can become stressed and refuse to eat if they can’t find a place to hide, and if this stress is prolonged it can make them ill.
You also have to feed them mice – usually somewhere around once every 4 or 5 days for younger snakes and about once a week for adult snakes. Some snakes will eat mice that have been frozen and then thawed, but not all of them will. Even milk snakes, which are known to eat thawed mice, sometimes won’t, either because they don’t want to or because of that snake’s particular personality (in this case, speak to a specialist/vet/breeder about the best type of mice for your snake). Milk snakes are constriction killers, meaning they suffocate their prey. So if you’re squeamish or really don’t want to deal with any of the above, a snake is not for you. Period.
However, what no one tells you about snakes is that they can escape as often as hamsters do…and if you have the two at the same time and the snakes gets out, you might not have a hamster anymore.
Milk snakes are a smaller snake, usually averaging two or three feet in length, which makes them popular with people who may not have as much room to house corn snakes or boas. They get their name from a foul smelling ‘milk’ that the males secrete when threatened, so the first few times you handle your milk snake you make not come out smelling like roses.
Red milk snakes are identifiable by their tri-colored bands; thick red bands separated by a black-yellow-black pattern. They are often mistaken for coral snakes, who have a red-yellow-black-yellow pattern. ** Coral snakes are highly venomous and should be avoided if encountered in the wild. If you find yourself ever wondering if a snake is a milk snake or a coral snake, stay away from it.**.
From LCLinkous May 19 2014 6:34PM
A Hardy Show-Stopper
The red milksnake is not only gorgeous and mild-mannered, but hardy as well - an excellent choice for novices, yet interesting enough for advanced keepers. Even after decades of work in zoos with snakes from around the world, I reserve a place in my collection for this beauty and its relatives.
With proper care, red milksnakes can live in excess of 20 years. A simple 30-40 gallon terrarium stocked with a hide box (or, better yet, cypress mulch or aspen into which they can burrow) and heated to a temperature range of 78-85 F, with a basking spot of 88 F, meets their needs. Although they feed heavily on snakes and lizards in the wild, pets do fine on mice and rat pups..
From findiviglio Jan 17 2016 5:06PM