Species group: Skinks
Other common names: Eastern Blue-Tongued Skink (T. s. scincoides); Northern Blue-Tongued Skink (T. s. intermedia); Tanimbar Island Blue Tongued Skink (T. scincoides chimaerea)
Scientific name: Tiliqua scincoides
The Common Blue-Tongued Skink has grown immensely in popularity in recent years, and with good reason. Suitable for novices yet interesting enough for advanced hobbyists, it makes a hardy, responsive pet that is impressive in appearance and adjusts well to gentle handling.
Three subspecies of the Common Blue-Tongued Skink dwell in northern and eastern Australia and Indonesia. T. scincoides scincoides inhabits eastern Australia, T. s. intermedia is found in northern Australia, and T. s. chimaeria is limited to the Indonesia’s Tanimbar and Baber Islands.
Australian populations inhabit relatively dry, open woodlands, thorn scrub, brushy grasslands and suburban parks and gardens. Indonesian animals inhabit similar but often slightly more humid habitats.
Appearance / health:
The 16 - 24 inch-long body is stout and somewhat flattened, and sports tiny legs. The smooth scales are colored in various shades of gray or brown, and dark bands circle the body and tail. During threat displays, the mouth is held open to reveal the startlingly blue tongue. Breeders have produced a number of color morphs and crosses between the various subspecies.
Well-cared-for Blue-Tongued Skinks are quite hardy, with captive longevities occasionally approaching 30 years. Respiratory diseases can take hold if your pet is kept in a damp terrarium, and intestinal blockages caused by ingested substrate are sometimes a concern. Dry sheds, indicated by old skin adhering to the toes, tail tip, and other areas, may occur if a soaking bowl or cave stocked with moist sphagnum is not available.
Tanimbar Blue-tongued Skink: (T. s. chimaerea)The scales of the Tanimbar appear to shine. Their color pattern has less contrast than the other subspecies. They have pale to white mouths and chins.
Behavior / temperament:
Once accustomed to their surroundings, most Blue-Tongues take handing in stride. Although they tend to threaten more than bite, their snail-crushing jaws are immensely powerful – careful handling is a must. The smooth texture of the scales and relative “stiffness” of the body can render Blue-Tongued Skinks difficult to control.
Youngsters can be reared in 15-20 gallon terrariums; a single adult requires a 55 gallon or larger tank. Aspen or cypress mulch may be used as a substrate. Captives sometimes suffer intestinal impactions from substrate swallowed with food. This can be avoided by feeding in large bowls, or by housing your lizards on newspaper or cage liners.
While many pets have been raised without UVB exposure, providing it is a safer option. Mercury vapor bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances than florescent models, and provide beneficial UVA radiation and heat as well. Caves and cork bark serve well as retreats; one hide-away should be stocked with moist sphagnum moss.
A temperature gradient of 75-82 F and a basking temperature of 90-100 F, with a dip to 70-75 F at night, should be established. Large enclosures will allow your pet to thermo-regulate by moving from hot to cooler areas. This behavior is important to long-term health, and is usually not possible in small cages. Humidity should be kept at 25-45 %, and the substrate must remain dry. A water bowl large enough for soaking should be provided.
Males cannot be housed together; females will establish a dominance hierarchy, so groups must be monitored carefully.
The natural diet includes flowers, foliage, seeds, fruit, spiders, beetles, grasshoppers, and other invertebrates, with snails being a particular favorite. Smaller lizards and nestling rodents may be taken on occasion.
Salads comprised of greens and vegetables should make up 60-70% of the diet. Kale, bok choy, string beans, collard and mustard greens, squash, dandelion, carrots, tomatoes, squash, beets, and other seasonally available produce should be included. Do not feed spinach, as it binds calcium, rendering it unavailable to your pets. Figs, apples, banana, oranges, kiwi, papaya and other fruits should be fed in moderation, i.e. as approximately 10% of the diet.
Animal-based protein can be provided by canned monitor lizard diets, canned or live snails, locusts, butter worms, crickets, sow bugs, roaches, hornworms, and other commercially available species. Insects should themselves be provided with a nutritious diet for 1-3 days before being offered to your pets. Mealworms have been implicated in intestinal blockages, and should be avoided or used only when recently-molted (white in color. Powdered calcium and vitamin/mineral supplements should be used 1-2 times weekly for adult lizards, and on most meals provided to juveniles.
Females selected for breeding should be at least 2 years of age, males 1 year. The sexes can be difficult to distinguish. Males generally have a thicker tail base than females, but this is relative. Mature males may exhibit a bulge (indicating the hemipenes) at each side of the cloaca.
Breeders should be chilled to 60-65 F for 1-3 months during the fall (after a 2 week fast), at which time the day length should be reduced to 10 hours. A basking spot of 80 F can be provided for 2 hours daily, but many breeders dispense with this. Once temperatures return to normal, introductions must be made carefully, as either sex can attack and injure the other. Pairs should be watched during this time, and the female removed after mating occurs, or at day’s end. Mated females give birth to 6-25 youngsters after a gestation period of 90-150 days. The young should be removed from the female’s enclosure and reared separately or in compatible groups.
Written by Frank Indiviglio
great family pets, personable intelligent, brilliant starter reptile, big calm lizard
poor health, semi-large tank, health problems
brilliant teaching tools, evolutionary link, pretty good beginner, pickyfuzzy mice
Bluey the Blue-tongued Lizard
We found Bluey sunning himself outside our front door the first summer after we moved into our new house. He soon became a regular presence around the house and an unofficial pet. He was super friendly and didn’t mind being handled. The cats never bothered him, though he could sometimes be a little shy around the dog if she got too close to sniff him. He was always fine with the kids if they wanted to pat him or sunbake next to him. Bluey was a lover of snails and therefore loved hanging out in our garden and keeping the snail population in check.
When we moved house two years later, we had Bluey sitting in a box by the front door ready to be loaded into the car. Somehow he managed to escape and we couldn’t find him. Sadly, we had to leave him behind. He had been living there before we came along, so perhaps it was only fitting that he stayed. It was probably for the best, as we have seen other blue-tongue lizards around our new house and they are known to be territorial..
From JoHart Aug 11 2015 6:52AM
Great Beginner Lizard: The Irian Jaya Blue-Tongued Skink (Tiliqua sp.)
My review can be applied to most blue tongues in general, but I will be specifically talking about the Irian Jaya Blue-Tongued Skink (Tiliqua sp.). I am by no means an expert, but I have kept several of this species for some years, so I do have a bit of experience with them. I currently own four IJs (Irian Jayas) and will hopefully have babies that I produced in a month or two. The Irian Jaya Blue-Tongued Skink (Tiliqua sp.) does not currently have a species designation (I had to put this review under Tiliqua scincoides since there was no option for the Irian Jaya). They originate from the Irian Jaya province of Indonesia and come in a wide variety of patterns and colours. Appearance: Irian Jayas are arguably one of the most variable blue tongue (at least outside of Australia) in terms of colour and pattern. Some are darker with browns and blacks, some have pinks and yellows, some are very orange; there is a huge amount of combinations. Pattern-wise, some IJs will look more like "gigas" (Indonesian blue tongues), and some will look more "scincoides" (such as Tanimbars, Northerns, and Eastern blue tongues). Handling/Temperament: In general, blue tongues tame down fairly well. Out of my four IJs, one of them is very interactive and "social", one is less interactive but still curious and explorative, one tries to avoid humans but will investigate what someone is doing occasionally, and one is terrified of people. From my experiences and what I've seen with other people, IJs, and blue tongues in general, typically are very curious and will investigate what you are doing, but the levels of interactivity will depend on the individual. Your best bet on getting a blue tongue that is more likely to be friendly toward people is to buy captive bred from a reputable breeder. Most IJs in the pet trade will be wild caught or captive born (pregnant female was imported and gave birth in captivity). However, the amount of people breeding IJs is increasing. If you are outside of Australia, Northern blue tongues (Tiliqua scincoides intermedia) should always be captive bred since Australia does not allow export of their reptiles. When it comes to handling, some blue tongues will sit still, and some will always want to move. Visibility/activity level: This can depend on the individual to some extent. Many blue tongues like to bury themselves in substrate and sometimes won't come out for a day or two. Some will cruise around their enclosure fairly often, whereas others are lazy lumps. Habitat: The set up for these guys is simple. The standard for blue tongues may vary between continents/countries, so this is what is considered standard for the American blue tongue community. An enclosure with a floor space of at least 36"x18" (or a 40 gallon breeder tank) is considered the minimum size for one blue tongue. Methods of housing can be tanks (though they work better for species that don't require high humidity), sealed wood enclosures, pvc enclosures, and converted tubs. Several inches of substrate is recommended to allow them to bury themselves if desired. For IJs, they require about 60-70% humidity for good health. Substrates such as cypress mulch, coco fibre, peat moss, sphagnum moss, and soil (without additive/chemicals) are good choices. Avoid substrates like care fresh, newspaper, and aspen for species that require high humidity. If using a tank with a screen top, it is good to cover it with something like plexiglass or foil; this way, the humidity won't escape very quickly. Provide a large waterbowl that they can soak in if needed and a hide on the cool end and warm end of the enclosure. Different methods of heating can be used: undertank heating (with thermostat) using heat tape or an Under Tank Heater (UTH) or overhead heating using a heat bulb, Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE), or a Radiant Heat Panel (RHP). Basking surface temperatures (measured using a temperature gun or probe) around 95-100 are typical. A topic of controversy is the use or lack of UV lighting. Breeders in the US that have been keeping and breeding for decades have had hundreds of healthy skinks that were not provided with UVB light. Of course, this does not mean that UVB light isn't beneficial. This is a topic I would suggested researching and talking with a variety of experienced keepers and breeders about so that you can make an informed decision on how to keep your blue tongue. If you decide to go without UVB, supplementing their food with calcium WITH D3 is advised. Cleaning is fairly simple as well. Spot clean for feces whenever found. Do a full substrate change every once in a while. Feeding: This is another issue of controversy. Most breeders and keepers, at least in the US and Australia, feed high-quality, grain-free wet dog food (babies and juveniles are typically fed non-fish cat food). It may seem strange, but it has been used for decades with success. Some people mix in or rotate out dog food for other foods for a balanced diet. However, if you use a homemade diet, research is very important. I and others have seen many unhealthy blue tongues with MBD (metabolic bone disease) that were provided with UVB and homemade diets, yet there are thousands of healthy blue tongues being fed mainly dog food without UVB lighting. This, like the UVB controversy, is something that you should research yourself and talk with many experienced keepers about to make an informed decision. Since blue tongues are omnivores, they can eat a wide variety of foods. Some foods that I have offered are dubia roaches, hornworms, crickets, eggs, mealworms, superworms, chicken, shrimp, isopods, pinkie mice, chicks, green beans, carrots, butternut squash, celery, collared greens, cactus, bell pepper, Pangea crested gecko diet, banana, raspberries, grapes, apple, blackberries, and blueberries. There is also a new pre-made diet from Repashy called Bluey Buffet which seems to be working well for many people. I would also recommend supplementing food with calcium with D3 if not using a UVB light. Adults only need to be fed about once a week, and babies and juveniles are fed more frequently. Health: Blue tongues are genrally extremely hardy reptiles. Some species/subspecies are more forgiving of husbandry errors than others; luckily, Irian Jayas are pretty forgiving. Since most IJs are either wild caught or captive born, internal parasites are one thing you need to watch out for. Getting a fecal exam done by a vet will help you determine if your bluey has parasites and can receive treatment if needed. Blue tongues that are imported can sometimes have mites. Mites are a pain to treat (as are internal parasites), so quarantining your new animal is essential. The main health issue I've seen that stems from husbandry is due to improper humidity. Low humidity for IJs can cause eye and respiratory issues as well as bad sheds which can lead constriction of the toes. With thorough research, these skinks are very easy to care for and make wonderful pets that can easily live over 20 years old. Resources: For further reading, I'd recommend a Facebook group called "Blue Tongue Skink Keepers" If you like videos, I would highly recommend this Youtube channel for care (ReptileMountain.TV): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyaNLKT4ySg50Qc6tSzVLLg And one more, a great forum with years of info to look through: http://www.bluetongueskinks.net/ .
From Skinkerdoodles Feb 28 2017 7:10AM