"Kiko" is the Maori word for meat or flesh, appropriately describing the Kiko Goats of New Zealand. The Kiko breed is a cross of small but hardy feral goats with bigger Anglo-Nubian, Saanen, and Toggenburg breeds.
According to the International Kiko Goat Association "The Kiko was introduced by its New Zealand developers as a new goat breed to the 4th International Congress on Goats (Brazilia, Brazil) in 1987. The Kiko goat was developed for a specific purpose. The New Zealand goat producers wanted a goat with superior qualities for commercial meat production. During the early development of the Kiko breed, goats with exceptional phenotypes (observable characteristics, i.e. survivability, weight gain, etc.) derived from the enormous New Zealand feral goat population were bred to domesticated goats that also demonstrated exceptional phenotypes."
Appearance / health:
Kiko goats are large white goats that typically have a slick coat in the summer and long hair in the winter. Some individuals have unique color patterns. The ears tend to stick out from the head horizontally. Both males and females have horns. Kikos are known to be lean and muscular and can thrive even in harsh conditions. Kikos have a high growth rate without the need for high maintenance and special feeding.
Goats are sensitive animals that can suffer from various infectious and chronic diseases that are sometimes undetected until too late. Vaccinations, as well as de-worming and de-lousing applications must be conducted as needed. Milking goats should be checked regularly using prescribed mastitis tests for udder health. Milking areas should always be clean and the goat’s teats treated with teat dip after milking to prevent mastitis.
Goats must be inspected frequently to detect any signs of poor health, infections, or other ailments. Signs include cloudy or teary eyes, dull or fluffed up coat, droopy tail, hunched back, or poor appetite. A veterinarian should always be on call to address health concerns.
Behavior / temperament:
Goats are inherently curious, active, intelligent, and social. They are known to have the ability to overcome enclosures by unraveling the gate, climbing over the mesh, or pushing and ramming the fence down. Goats have good coordination and balance and can manage to climb low trees, ledges, and overhangs. Their curiosity leads them to constantly investigate items with their mouths; most items get chewed and swallowed. With a little patience, goats can be taught to carry or pull loads, respond to calls, and lead a herd. As social animals, they easily get along with other farm animals.
Housing / diet:
As herd animals, goats are best kept in pairs or groups. As grazers, they require an outdoor habitat that is securely fenced to prevent escape or foraging in restricted areas. The area should be large enough to allow the goat to roam. The recommended habitat per goat is 200 sq. ft. of yard or pasture plus a sheltered or indoor area of about 15 sq. ft. The sheltered area should be adequately built to keep the goats safe from rain and strong winds.
Keeping goats inside the house is not recommended because of the pet’s tendency to gnaw and chew on furniture and furnishings. Goats are also not known to adhere to toilet training.
The ideal food for domesticated goats is alfalfa hay and grass hay. This should be available daily in quantities of at least 3% of the goat’s body weight. Small quantities of feed grain and concentrates (often protein-enriched) like goat show or goat grain can also be given to add nutrition. Supplements are often used to address deficiencies inherent to local habitats. If a feed is supplemented, quality goat blend of 16% should be fed. Do not over feed.
Clean water is essential to a goat’s daily diet. It should always be available and provided where it cannot be soiled. Dirty and moldy water is hazardous to the goat’s health. Milking goats should be kept away from aromatic or strong-tasting foliage like garlic, onions, mint, and cabbage, which could taint the flavor of the milk.
fast weight gain, parasite resistance, wet climates, low maintenance, dualpurpose homesteading goats
seasonal hormonal thing
excellent mothering abilities, survivor type instinct, cart goats, Low management inputs, multiple births
Meet Lucy Our Kiko Goat
Lucy came to us from a rescue shelter she was about three years old (A guess) . These goats are so full of personality. I would go out to the yard and say... Where is my Lucy goat? She would answer back with her sweet goat noises and come running. Sometimes she would even jump up and place both her hooves on my shoulders vocally asking for a treat.
She loved apples, carrots, dry corn and unfortunately chicken food (Not good for goats so I was told.)
She did not care for our dogs and would push them away with the top of her head. They eventually just kept clear of her path.
We had no health issues at all with her.
The only behavior issue we had was we had to keep her away from our cars. She would jump on the hood and broke a few windshield wipers. We also had to tell company to park out of her path.
One other "issue" is we were the only ones in the area that seemed to have a goat. She for some reason made people think our yard was a bit of a petting zoo ha ha. I didn't really mind though it was just a bit awkward at first. We also had some people who wanted to buy her for food! Um no! ha ha.
You must provide these goats with a clean dry place to stay at night. They need to be bedded down with hay. Provided with clean water, goat food contrary to belief they can not just eat what ever.
Goats are very curious, and good jumpers so a high fence will be needed. When we first got her we tied her out, however that is not a good or long term solution as they are quick moving and the rope can become pretty dangerous for both them and you. Some with large properties never need the fence but, she seemed to want to wander.
Kiko goats are entertaining fun "pets" however they require a farm type setting and a lot of care..
From JLee74 Jan 26 2015 6:50PM