According to the British Alpine Breed Society, "The British Alpine breed, although first recognised and established in England at the beginning of the last century, is of varied and largely unknown genetic origin. There were black and white goats in England, which had been produced by introducing genes from black Anglo Nubians into Toggenburg goats (and of course the native goats in Great Britain.
"The female goat that has been given the distinction of being the founder of the British Alpine breed is Sedgmere Faith which was imported in 1903 from the Paris Zoo. It was through Faith's sons, when mated to an imported Toggenburg male, that important progress was made. The frequency of black and white goats increased. The combination of high yield and attractive appearance lead to the increase and popularity of the breed."
Appearance / health:
According to the British Alpine Breed Society, "The British Alpine should have a black coat with white "Swiss" markings on its head, legs and around its tail. The correct distribution of black and white markings is best illustrated with a photograph. The female's short, shiny, black coat set into relief by the contrasting white markings can make it a most attractive breed. Both sexes should be rangy, without becoming coarse. The rangy frame of the breed makes it well suited to browsing, and it does well on a bulky fibrous diet."
Goats are sensitive animals that can suffer from various infectious and chronic diseases that are sometimes undetected until too late. Vaccinations, as well as de-worming and de-lousing applications must be conducted as needed. Milking goats should be checked regularly using prescribed mastitis tests for udder health. Milking areas should always be clean and the goat’s teats treated with teat dip after milking to prevent mastitis.
Goats must be inspected frequently to detect any signs of poor health, infections, or other ailments. Signs include cloudy or teary eyes, dull or fluffed up coat, droopy tail, hunched back, or poor appetite. A veterinarian should always be on call to address health concerns.
Behavior / temperament:
Goats are inherently curious, active, intelligent, and social. They are known to have the ability to overcome enclosures by unraveling the gate, climbing over the mesh, or pushing and ramming the fence down. Goats have good coordination and balance and can manage to climb low trees, ledges, and overhangs. Their curiosity leads them to constantly investigate items with their mouths; most items get chewed and swallowed. With a little patience, goats can be taught to carry or pull loads, respond to calls, and lead a herd. As social animals, they easily get along with other farm animals.
Housing / diet:
As herd animals, goats are best kept in pairs or groups. As grazers, they require an outdoor habitat that is securely fenced to prevent escape or foraging in restricted areas. The area should be large enough to allow the goat to roam. The recommended habitat per goat is 200 sq. ft. of yard or pasture plus a sheltered or indoor area of about 15 sq. ft. The sheltered area should be adequately built to keep the goats safe from rain and strong winds.
Keeping goats inside the house is not recommended because of the pet’s tendency to gnaw and chew on furniture and furnishings. Goats are also not known to adhere to toilet training.
The ideal food for domesticated goats is alfalfa hay and grass hay. This should be available daily in quantities of at least 3% of the goat’s body weight. Small quantities of feed grain and concentrates (often protein-enriched) like goat show or goat grain can also be given to add nutrition. Supplements are often used to address deficiencies inherent to local habitats.
Clean water is essential to a goat’s daily diet. It should always be available and provided where it cannot be soiled. Dirty and moldy water is hazardous to the goat’s health. Milking goats should be kept away from aromatic or strong-tasting foliage like garlic, onions, mint, and cabbage, which could taint the flavor of the milk.
good milk, great pets, handsome breed, cheese making.
Jumping.My favourite Buck
herd bully, surplus male kids
One of the better ones for pet and Milking.
My experience started by accident, when some one contacted me because they were leaving the state, and could I take their goats, I did.they were British Alpine, but not registered. Well the best one was Firefly, and she was a gem. Upright with all the traits that an Alpine should have but she was a herd bully and quickly became the leader, once there she would bring them in and have them at the gate at night in the morning they would go out, and milk she was terrific, she got her herd awards,and her milk Awards, she was R106*Q* and tragically her only daughter, that I kept hung herself in the fence on a very hot day and I wasn't home. the only problem I have with her was that she produced more males than females, she lived to a ripe old age of 12 years, and her daughters that she had, went on to milk brilliantly for their owners.I still try to maintain at least one in my herd even now because they help to produce a good milk for cheese making. and the quantity is excellent. Just one thing for any one considering a B/A, make sure your fences are up to scratch and higher than for any other goat, B/A's have a habit of Jumping.
My favourite Buck, a magnificient B/A, was only a buckling when I got him, and on this morning I was down feeding he was on the other side of the gate waiting for his breakfast, and Obviously wasn't quick enough, I turned my back and when I turned around he was beside me helping him self. I put him back gave him his breakfast, and carried on. well would you believe he jumped that 6' gate twice more. before I realized what he was doing, He was doing a standing start, up and over, the gate grew and that stopped him. but he was a beauty. we lost him at 15years old,.
From amir133 Jan 17 2013 12:32AM
Mild and good quality dairy!
In my experience with goats, they are the best livestock to have if the purpose is milk harvesting. Compared to owning a cow or a sheep, a goat is a relatively low maintenance animal and it produces ample amounts of milk. In my opinion 2-3 goats is the optimal number to own for a small household or a farm. The only risk is that they vary in terms of character and milk yield. So far I have been happy with the milk quantities, during the peak periods I manage to extract 2-3 litres from each goat. The milk is tasty to consume as fresh or to make yoghurt and cheese with. Two of our goats are very mild and docile, generally comfortable around people, but our third one loves acting up! She is the most inquisitive and likes running off on me, but is usually calm when I milk her. Our goats are creatures of habit, I send them away to graze with a goatherd’s herd early in the morning and he when he brings the herd back in the evening my goats always recognise my house and make their way to the barn when I open the gate. Then they know it’s time for an evening milking and I just have to tie them loosely to a post, they never kick or tug away. They cope any weather, but during the cold months it is important to make sure the barn floor has no damp on – foot rot is a serious threat to them!.
From zhanet Feb 12 2015 11:40AM
Friendly but annoying habits
The goat was great at first. Very spunky. Then it started eating EVERYTHING and pooping everywhere. We had to give him away because he would jump on our cars and visitors cars and scratch them..
From JustAyer Feb 17 2016 8:53PM