The Boer Goat was developed in the early 1900's by Dutch farmers in South Africa. Boers are known for being docile, having high fertility and a fast growth rates. They are a popular breed raised for meat.
Kiko goats originated from New Zealand, and are lean and muscular and can thrive in harsh conditions. Kikos have a high growth rate without the need for high maintenance and special feeding.
Boers and Kikos are often crossed to create a meat goat with exceptional growth, carcass, meat quality and meat color.
The Genemaster Goat, is the name for a Boer / Kiko cross of three-eighths Kiko and five-eighths Boer.
Appearance / health:
Goats are sensitive animals that can suffer from various infectious and chronic diseases that are sometimes undetected until too late. Vaccinations, as well as de-worming and de-lousing applications must be conducted as needed. Milking goats should be checked regularly using prescribed mastitis tests for udder health. Milking areas should always be clean and the goat’s teats treated with teat dip after milking to prevent mastitis.
Goats must be inspected frequently to detect any signs of poor health, infections, or other ailments. Signs include cloudy or teary eyes, dull or fluffed up coat, droopy tail, hunched back, or poor appetite. A veterinarian should always be on call to address health concerns.
Behavior / temperament:
Goats are inherently curious, active, intelligent, and social. They are known to have the ability to overcome enclosures by unraveling the gate, climbing over the mesh, or pushing and ramming the fence down. Goats have good coordination and balance and can manage to climb low trees, ledges, and overhangs. Their curiosity leads them to constantly investigate items with their mouths; most items get chewed and swallowed. With a little patience, goats can be taught to carry or pull loads, respond to calls, and lead a herd. As social animals, they easily get along with other farm animals.
Housing / diet:
As herd animals, goats are best kept in pairs or groups. As grazers, they require an outdoor habitat that is securely fenced to prevent escape or foraging in restricted areas. The area should be large enough to allow the goat to roam. The recommended habitat per goat is 200 sq. ft. of yard or pasture plus a sheltered or indoor area of about 15 sq. ft. The sheltered area should be adequately built to keep the goats safe from rain and strong winds.
Keeping goats inside the house is not recommended because of the pet’s tendency to gnaw and chew on furniture and furnishings. Goats are also not known to adhere to toilet training.
The ideal food for domesticated goats is alfalfa hay and grass hay. This should be available daily in quantities of at least 3% of the goat’s body weight. Small quantities of feed grain and concentrates (often protein-enriched) like goat show or goat grain can also be given to add nutrition. Supplements are often used to address deficiencies inherent to local habitats.
Clean water is essential to a goat’s daily diet. It should always be available and provided where it cannot be soiled. Dirty and moldy water is hazardous to the goat’s health. Milking goats should be kept away from aromatic or strong-tasting foliage like garlic, onions, mint, and cabbage, which could taint the flavor of the milk.
"Well, over all we decided to get into Myotonic Goats full time. However, we had several crosses of the Kiko Boer. These does were very good mothers. The males we had grew very quick and were very nice. We have also known folks with these same crosses and Full Kikos and Boers, all very nice. I did find the Kiko Boer crosses to be more dairly like at kidding time. What I mean by this is the utter would fill more like a dairy goat and the weight would be harder to keep with kidding. However, we had some very nice girls and bred them to our Myotonic bucks and had some georgous kids.."
From grayrobinranch Oct 24 2010 10:29AM