Species group: Clownfish
Other common names: Barberi Clownfish
Scientific name: Amphiprion barberi
The most recently-described member of its family, the Fiji Barberi Clownfish has caused quite a stir in our hobby. In addition to providing us with the opportunity to work with a “new” species, it is gorgeous, active, and has already been bred in captivity.
The Fiji Barberi Clownfish is found along coral reefs and rocky ledges off Fiji, Samoa, and Tonga, in the Western Pacific Ocean.
Appearance / health:
The body is bright reddish-orange, and highlighted by a bold white stripe behind the eye, while brilliant orange colors the face, tail, and fins. Adults reach 10 cm (4 in) in length.
The Fiji Barberi Clownfish has, so far, proven to be a hardy pet when housed under proper conditions.
Behavior / temperament:
Fiji Barberi Clownfish will defend a favored cave or rock, and may attack other Clownfish, or species with a similar appearance. When provided with an acceptable sea anemone, they calm down and confine aggression to the immediate area of their home base.
This hardy reef-dweller fares best in a well-filtered 113 liter (30 gal) or larger aquarium that is provisioned with numerous rock/coral caves and host sea anemones. Most aquarists provide Entacemaea spp anemones, but a wide variety of species will be accepted. Clownfish usually do fine without anemones, but feel more secure (and hence are “better-behaved” towards other fish!), when they are present. Live sand and live rock should be included if possible. Mated pairs may be housed together, but other Clownfish may be harassed unless great deal of living space is provided.
The following water quality parameters should be maintained in order to assure long-term health: Temperature: 23.3-28 C (74-82 F); Specific Gravity (Salinity): 1.020-1.025; pH: 8.1-8.4.
The diet should be varied, and include chopped clams, mussels, and prawn, live and frozen Mysis, and flakes/pellets designed for omnivorous marine fishes.
Several Clownfish species, including this one, have been bred in captivity. In those species that have been studied, all hatchlings are males, with dominant individuals becoming females. The eggs are deposited on a rock that has been cleared of algae and debris by the parents. Males guard and aerate the eggs. The fry fare well on live rotifers, and are most easily reared in their own aquarium.
Written by Frank Indiviglio
Very intense, uses a lot of energy
Metal halides were the go-to lighting fixtures in reef-keeping. They are very bright but give off a lot of heat and require a big ballast to start up. I've had over 15 reef tanks that used MH bulbs. Some aquarists with really deep reef tanks use them but most hobbyists go with modern LED reef lighting. You have to replace them every year because the light quality (spectrum) declines over time. Reef LED fixtures provide enough intensity and the right color spectrum for stony corals. LED lighting uses a fraction of the energy and runs much cooler..
From James 505 days ago