Species group: Hound Group dogs
Although the Treeing Walker Coonhound wasn't recognized by the AKC until 2012, this trailing hound with a treeing instinct has a fairly long history in the United States, probably dating back to English Foxhounds imported to Virginia in 1742. Several so-called Walker Hounds were developed from this line, but the Treeing Walker stands out so much that the AKC calls it "the people's choice of coonhounds." These dogs were bred to track and tree raccoons, which required both courage-- coons are not shy-- and the ability to work well with their human companions. As a result, these fine hunting dogs are also well-regarded for their fine character.
Appearance / health:
The Treeing Walker Coonhound is a strong, powerful dog. The ears are medium in length. The eyes are dark in color. The nostrils are large and prominent. The chest is deep. The back is muscular and strong. The tail is set rather high. The legs are straight and muscular.
The Treeing Walker Coonhound requires minimal grooming. Occasional brushing and bathing are sufficient to keep the coat in good shape.
This energetic dog has been bred for vigorous physical exercise. Coonhounds are born natural hunters, and have a tendency to escape if they are not kept well-fenced while exercising on their own.
A relatively healthy breed; the Treeing Walker Coonhound does not suffer from any genetic disorders.
Behavior / temperament:
The Treeing Walker Coonhound has a powerful sense for trailing, hunting, and treeing. A noisy hunter, the breed is a fast, hot-nosed, sensible hunter with a clear, ringing howl or a steady, clear chop with changeover at the tree. It finds its quarry quickly displaying great stamina and treeing ability.
The Treeing Walker Coonhound is able to learn from example and can be trained easily using consistent, firm, and patient training methods.
The Treeing Walker Coonhound is generally a quiet dog though dogs of this breed are known to howl.
great outdoors, friendly dog, excellent guard dog, make great family pets
settle down, on-going energy, problem diggers, small animals, prey drive animals
ongoing energy, rabbit hunting, distinctive baybark, little grooming
Slick, the Coon Dog
I saw Slick at my very first Winter Classic. I was in awe of all the coon dogs; I had never seen so many before. My boyfriend coon hunts, and I go with him every now and then. He has a three-year-old female and a year-old male. He didn't even really want Slick because Bo, the male, was growing and eating a lot of food. He bought Slick for me anyways. A few weeks after we brought Slick home, he had to go into surgery to get an umbilical hernia fixed. He also has an issue with his sternum curving up, but as long as we watch him while he's hunting, nothing will happen. Once he was out of surgery, he stayed inside for a week to heal. We thought that the week inside would ruin him as a coon dog, but a few nights ago, we took him hunting with the other two dogs. He did amazing for a puppy less than six months old. When we let Thin Rine and Bo loose into a field, Slick wasn't sure if he wanted to go after him, but once they started barking, Slick ran off into the field, too. He even opened up some. The next place we dropped them off was in a small patch of woods. This time he didn't go in after them alone, but once we got to the tree, he barked a couple of times and even got up on the tree! I know a lot of you think nothing of this, but for a hunting dog, this is awesome! After Bo and Thin Rine killed the coon, we let Slick loose to sniff it. He even chewed on the head some! All-in-all, Walkers are the way to go when you're buying a coon dog!.
From kristinaknight7 Apr 10 2015 4:40PM
Great for certain cases of chronic vomiting
Two main underlying causes of gastroesophageal reflux are recent anesthesia and chronic vomiting, which can be caused by a number of different conditions like chronic gastritis or gastroenteritis, chronic pancreatitis, food allergies, lympangiectasia, parasites, inflammatory bowel disease etc. Dogs suffering from chronic gastritis and duodenitis, which aren't caused by allergens, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, acute and chronic pancreatitis and lymphangiectasia (if you use low fat i/d), liver disease, and dogs who don't have a particular diagnosis, but have a "sensitive stomach" will benefit the most from this diet. In cases of metabolic and endocrine diseases, inflammatory bowel disease, kidney disease, food allergies, intestinal obstruction, foreign bodies, etc. this type of diet wont be much help, though it's always useful for your dog to eat something which is more digestible when they have GI problems. Foods which are easy to digest move faster through the GI tract and induce less acid production, thus helping the healing process, by reducing the acid production and further damage, as well as reducing the time GI tracts spends digesting food so it can have more time to heal. Hill's I/D and other commercial "gastro-intestinal" diets have been tailored according to research suggesting level of nutrients best for management of GI inflammation. Besides the composition of the diet there are few other factors which can be beneficial. Wet foods are better, and even better if they've been heated to 20-38°C. Also small and more frequent meals work better then just one big meal. .
From Vuk Ignjic DVM 166 days ago
The importance of socialization
As it is for us human beings, socializing in the early stages of our lives is extremely important for our growth and self esteem. The most important thing is to make sure that your puppy has had enough socialization and to ensure that it wasn’t taken away too soon from his litter. Often puppies, especially when for sale, are taken away from their mother and siblings way too soon. If this is not your case and your puppy was brought up following the right guidelines, make sure to provide him with the right amount of socialization time. One of the most effective ways to do so is to take him to a puppy day care. Here your puppy will be followed and looked after by a team of experts and dog trainers. Depending on the set up and environment of the day care, I recommend a minimum age of 3 months when you first bring your puppy to day care. Very important is to take it easy at the beginning: once or twice a week, for the first month at least, should be enough for your puppy, in order to give him time to adapt and get used to the day care. Most puppies will love it and they will learn from other dogs, with help of the trainers, with regard to how to behave, play and have fun. .
From Luca Trainer 440 days ago
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