Species group: Lories and Lorikeets
Other common names: Rainbow Lorikeet, Rainbow Lory, Coconut Lorikeet
Scientific name: Trichoglossus haematodus
The name Rainbow Lory or Lorikeet is used by pet owners to refer a number of species and subspecies, but one of the most common species under that name is the personable Green-naped Lorikeet. Currently, the official common English name Rainbow Lorikeet has been assigned to the species known to pet owners as the Swainson's Lorikeet or Blue Mountain Lorikeet. The name Coconut Lorikeet has been assigned to the Green-naped Lorikeet. However, most pet owners and bird sellers frequently still call Green-napes Rainbows-- not Coconuts. If you have any doubts about what bird you're looking at, ask about the scientific name and check with an expert.
All Rainbow Lorikeets are highly regarded for brains as well as beauty. Properly socialized birds have been trained to fly to anyone, and these beautiful yet friendly avian clowns can be rewarding pets for the well-motivated, well-financed individual. Alas, they can be impractical for the average person, since they demand an expensive, high maintenance lifestyle.
This adaptable species has a wide range from Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and more. It has also been introduced to the urban habitats of Hong Kong and SIngapore.Like other Rainbows, Green-naped Lorikeets form noisy, opportunistic flocks that wander in search of flowering trees, and they're happy to accept nectar and fruit offered by friendly humans who set up feeders for them.
They do represent something of a taxonomic challenge. Currently, there are nine subspecies of Coconut Lorikeets. Because of the confusion of the huge number of subspecies and even several full species once lumped in under the name of Rainbow Lorikeet, you'll need to take care to make sure you have properly identified your pet. If you plan to breed your bird, contact an expert and get a certain identification, to avoid creating a mismatch. Some birds have already been inadvertently hybridized and those individuals should be kept as pets or as beautiful aviary specimens, rather than being added to breeding programs.
You cannot use the presence of the green nape to distinguish the Green-nape from Swainson's Lorikeet. Both of these "rainbows" have a green nape. Instead, check the belly and underparts. The Green Nape has a green belly and a red breast with blue-black barring, so the birds are easy to tell apart once you realize what to look for. Swainson's or Blue Mountain Lorikeet has a bright blue belly.
100 - 157 grams (3.5 - 5.5oz.)
25 centimeters (10 in.)
15 - 25 years
Behavior / temperament:
The colorful Green-naped Lorikeet doesn't know its own size. These energetic birds may try to dominate the home, including other pets. They are intelligent, so keep them occupied learning tricks and playing with toys, rather than giving them the opportunity to pull the cat's tail. Learn the signs that your bird is becoming beaky, and know how to distract it from biting. You don't want to inadvertently train your lorikeet to nip to get its way.
Any of the Rainbow Lorikeets has the potential to become a playful clown and a decent talker. Start early, work with kindness and respect, and you may be surprised at the pet quality of these beautiful birds. Never assume that your lorikeet will stay sweet without any effort.
Housing the Green-naped Lorikeet, especially a single pet, is another genuine challenge. Like all lories, they tend to have loose, squirtable feces that are sticky, sweet, and quickly develop an odor, so it's important to set up a cage that's easy to clean. Some people advocate clear acrylic on the sides and back of the cage, and other people suggest a long, rather than a tall cage, since a lory that gets up high can squirt its mess much further than a bird who perches lower.
Many people recommend a hanging cage over a tile or concrete floor. We don't usually have concrete floors in our houses, but it's possible that we might have a family room with a quarry tile floor. Otherwise, put down lots of plastic over that carpet or wooden flooring, as well as any nearby walls that wouldn't be easy to wash off. A minimum size for your flight cage is 24”w x 24”d x 24”h with no more than ¾” bar spacing, but these active birds do better with even more room. A Florida room or a conservatory might be a great place for your lory, but know your plants, since you can only have bird-safe greenery where you have a busy nectar-eater checking each flower.
Even though Green-naped Lorikeets don't have the strongest beaks going, they can be beaky and they can develop a tendency to become nippy. You should train them to step up onto a hand or a perch, and you should have a playgym that is separate from the cage, to prevent an individual from becoming cage-bound or overly territorial. Provide plenty of toys and chew items to channel that energy. They may appreciate a small nest box to sleep in.
Feeding any lorikeet is a challenge. All lories and lorikeets are brush-tongued parrots, an unusual branch of the psittacine family tree that is evolved to feed on the nectar from flowering trees, with a little bit of flowers, fruit, and perhaps insects on the side. To create a practical version of this diet in captivity, most people start with a high quality, well-regarded commercial liquid nectar, with about 50% of the diet coming from the nectar and the remaining 50% coming from a fruit and vegetable puree or chop salad. If you have kept other parrots, you may be familiar with a chop salad that leans heavily toward the greens and vegetable side of the produce aisle. With the lories, you need to be focused mostly on the fruits, with a small amount of such vegetables as cooked corn added for variety.
Green-naped Lorikeets are at risk for iron storage disease and gout, which means that they thrive on a low iron, low protein diet. Many deep green vegetables, including spinach, chard, and turnip tops, contain oxalates, a chemical that improves the body's ability to store iron – a bad thing for lories. Vitamin C also helps the body store iron, which means that you shouldn't overfeed C-rich citrus fruit like oranges. Similarly, a healthy “soak and cook” with plenty of sprouted beans and peas will have way too much protein for lories.
They cannot digest seed, and if you try to maintain your Green-naped Lorikeet on a seed-based diet, it will starve. What about pellets? Most off-the-shelf pellets are dangerous for lories but, in recent decades, specialty suppliers have developed a small pellet or a dry powder, as an alternative to liquid nectar. However, not everyone agrees that these pellets are a healthy diet for lories. It does change the quality of their droppings, to make them firmer and easier to clean, but many breeders feel that liquid nectar is more natural and easier on the lory's system.
The major advantage of the new “dry” nectar is that you don't have sweet, damp food sitting in front of your bird all day. If you go this route, be sure to provide plenty of water in a nearby hanging water bottle. Be certain that the pellet or mix is a low iron product intended for lories, or don't even consider it.
That said, most experts do stick with liquid nectar, but we all know that nectar (sugar water!) is a great growth medium for bacteria. Hence, you have to change the nectar bottles frequently – every four hours during the day in hot weather and at least twice a day in any circumstance. You must never feed honey, avocado, or chocolate to your lorikeet.
Written by Elaine Radford